Don't Dismiss Detroit

By Molly Arost Staub

For Michael Jackson devotees, the best place to pay homage to the late entertainer may be the site where the Jackson Five got their start professionally — in Detroit's Motown Museum. In the unassuming double building, visitors learn that Motown Record Corp. founder Berry Gordy worked his magic from 1959 to 1972 (the company was originally named Motortown). Exhibits include photos of the Jackson Five (including one with the queen of England), record covers and gold records. Jackson's jeweled white glove and black fedora hat are also on display.

Other artists who recorded here include Stevie Wonder, the Temptations, Marvin Gaye and the Supremes. Visitors troop downstairs to Studio A, where they see the original piano, drums, earphones and recording equipment. After an explanation, everybody sings one of the famous songs, such as "My Girl." Motown holds scheduled tours Tuesdays through Saturdays.

But the city offers much more in addition to music. While the automotive industry is in the dumps and the city's unemployment rate is high, attractions made possible by automobile tycoons during Detroit's former glory days provide outstanding options for visitors.

The Detroit Institute of Arts offers one of the country's greatest — and largest — art collections that includes African and indigenous American works. American holdings include work by John Singer Sargent and Mary Cassatt, while European artists include Rembrandt, Renoir and Monet.

"The museum boasted the first van Gogh exhibited by a U.S. museum," said Graham Beal, director. Most well-known are Diego Rivera's frescoes titled "Detroit Industry" in the museum's courtyard. The famous Mexican artist considered these, painted in 1932 and 1933, his best work in the United States.

Additionally, there's the Cranbrook Art Museum, one of the nation's leading contemporary art museums. This museum includes important works by Willem deKooning, Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol and other major 20th century artists. It also boasts a sculpture collection on the grounds and a tour of the home of architect Eliel Saarinen.

But Detroit is about cars. In fact, driving through the streets provides an unusual opportunity to be surrounded by Dodges, Fords and Cadillacs rather than imported cars since most of the residents worked in the factories that produced those autos.

The best place to see the automobiles that brought Detroit its fame is the Henry Ford Museum, which showcases Ford's automotive history. Ford revolutionized the automobile industry design and introduced the assembly line. Despite his personal anti-Semitism and bigotry, his influence can't be denied. This museum reveals hundreds of examples of autos starting from the 18th century, plus an Airstream trailer, the bus in which Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat and JFK's presidential limousine. A Rock Stars' Cars & Guitars 2 exhibit appeals to hipsters.

Much more of historical value awaits, despite Ford's 1916 statement that "History is more or less bunk." (Later scholars say he was referring to history as taught in school.) Other examples include an original copy of Thomas Payne's "Common Sense," the chair in which President Lincoln sat when he was assassinated (with his blood still on it) and Mark Twain's writing table. Many 20th century icons appeal to younger generations, as well.

The Walter P. Chrysler Museum chronicles how other auto magnates established themselves in this area, too. Signage explains that a car was simply two bicycles side-by-side to which a motor and carriage were added, while some onlookers remarked that it seems more like a stagecoach where an engine replaced horses. The museum only exhibits 300 vehicles, yet each is displayed like a precious jewel. The oldest specimen is a 1902-Rambler; a 1941 station wagon and 1957 Plymouth Fury are sure to bring nostalgic memories. Interactive exhibits involve youngsters, too.

More history-made-real awaits at the 81-acre Greenfield Village. Here, 80 historic circa 19th-century buildings — 11 have been moved here — are open to visitors. Costumed interpreters describe the furnishings and occupants. Guests drive Model T's or try rolling huge hoops. The Henry Ford House is here, and so is Noah Webster's, along with Thomas Edison's Menlo Park laboratory, from which almost 500 patents were developed. The workshop where the Wright brothers created their flying machine is here from Dayton, Ohio, looking as it did 1903.

Charles H. Wright (no relation) is memorialized in the remarkable Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History.

"It's the world's largest museum of African American culture," said Tony Spearman-Leach, spokesperson.

Among its exhibits is a sophisticated re-creation of the history of slavery: The Marketplace in Benin, Africa; the trading between Europeans and Africans, which started with African kings; the horrendous conditions during the shipping of slaves; their arrival in Maryland; and life on a cotton plantation.

Even downtown Detroit surprises with stunning architecture and immaculate broad streets centered with malls of flower gardens. It's also the convenient home of the Detroit Tigers at Comerica Park. And while mansions and abandoned buildings are interspersed, few signs of graffiti are noticeable in this still-fascinating city.

IF YOU GO

The Westin Book-Cadillac, a gorgeous hotel originally opened in 1890 and hosting many presidents, was abandoned in 1986. It has now been re-created to the tune of $220 million and offers every luxury.

Seldom Blues Jazz Restaurant and Supper Club is noted for outstanding Continental cuisine and its view of the Detroit River that makes it seem possible for diners to reach out and touch Windsor, Ontario, Canada.

For information on Detroit or any of the attractions mentioned, call the Detroit Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau, 800-DETROIT (338-7648), or visit www.visitdetroit.com.

Molly Arost Staub is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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