10-04-25
by Patricia Woeber
With much fanfare, music is played in astonishingly beautiful
public and private venues all over France. Free organ and voice
recitals are held in great 12th century Gothic cathedrals and
rock and pop in first-century B.C. Roman coliseums, while
classical and jazz are found from major cities to tiny medieval
villages.
Paris' elegant Opera Garnier is an international attraction
and the city's other superb venues provide a huge selection. But
it's also interesting to venture farther and discover what's
going on in the countryside.
In the region of Lorraine in the northeast, the city of Nancy
epitomizes elegance. It owes its splendor to a plan by Louis XV
to get his father-in-law, Stanislaw Leszczynski, king of Poland,
out of his hair. Louis gave the dukedom of Lorraine, including a
generous allowance, to his 60-year-old beau-pere, believing he
wouldn't live long.
In fact, Stanislaw lived for 30 more years and died in 1766.
During that time he spent his money on beautifying Nancy by
building a system of harmonious squares. The main square, Place
Stanislas, is recognized as the most beautiful in the world and
listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. On Place Stanislas,
opera is presented in the National Theatre, and out in the air
casual events include rock and pop.
In Colmar (Alsace), Ravel and Rachmaninoff are big draws. In
Burgundy, the city of Dijon holds exceptional opera programs in
the auditorium. Last year's lineup included "L'Elisir de Amore,"
"Carmina Burana" and "Mozart l'Opera Rock." In addition, there
are theatrical shows, ballet and much more.
Dijon's International Festival of Folklore, "Les Fetes de la
Vigne," celebrated its 60th anniversary last year, and several
foreign musicians participated. Summers find "Fete de la Musique"
welcoming musical groups to perform on street corners.
In Burgundy's ancient wine town of Beaune, the International
Festival of Baroque Music (opera, sacred music and recitals) is
held in the memorable courtyard of the centuries-old Beaune
Hospice. This is the leading European festival of Baroque music.
Lovers of Handel and Mozart come here, and the town also offers
operas, sacred music and voice recitals.
For those who enjoy adrenaline-boosting spectaculars, an
event worth attending is held on the grounds of the great
fortress of Chateau de Ste-Fargeau in Burgundy, two hours' drive
from Paris. A thousand years ago the fortress was France's
largest. Dynamic pageants re-create historic events with special
effects and action. Themes are the Crusades, Joan of Arc,
Jacques Coeur, peasants, medieval feasts, Grand Mademoiselle
(royalty who owned the chateau), battles, the hunt and the 1914
Liberation. Puccini, Verdi, Mahler, Beethoven and Mozart
accompany the action.
Or head for Normandy in May for the spectacular pageant of
Festival Jeanne d'Arc held in Rouen, where she was burned at the
stake in the city center. Rouen's great Gothic cathedral
fascinated Monet to such a degree that he painted a series on
the light changing on the magnificent facade. The cathedral
offers an excellent selection of organ music. The city provides
highly respected opera, symphony, chamber music, classical and
modern dance, and much more.
While staying in cities that once were Roman settlements,
it's fascinating to experience a program in a Roman amphitheatre
built in the first century B.C. In Lyon (Rhone), seek out rock
and pop concerts, as the dramatic site has perfect acoustics for
theater, music and the outstanding special programs of "Les
Nuits de Fourviere." The city also draws audiences to their
Baroque Music Festival.
In Arles (Provence), rock and pop finds a perfect venue in
the Roman coliseum. In Orange (also in Provence), take in
Choregies d'Orange Music and Opera Festival. In addition to the
arena, Orange boasts a Roman theater, forum, temples and a
triumphal arch.
All over France there is music worth a journey, and this is
only the tip of the iceberg. What's on in Bordeaux (Aquitaine)
in the southwest? And how about Nantes and the chateaux along
the Loire River? Maybe it's time to plan another trip.
IF YOU GO
Air France flies daily to Paris:
www.airfrance.com.
From Paris, the TGV train rapidly reaches other cities:
www.raileurope.com.
Paris: www.operadeparis.fr; the Four Seasons George V:
www.fourseasons.com/Paris; Hotel Fouquet's BarriŠre:
www.fouquets-barriere.com.
Colmar:
www.festival-colmar.com.
Nancy: www.opera-national-lorraine.fr;
www.ot-nancy.fr/sortir/nancy_la_nuit.php;
www.ballet-de-lorraine.com.
Dijon: www.bourgogne-tourisme.com;
www.zenith-dijon.fr/index.php;
www.dijon.fr/sortir.1/les-concerts.36.0.1.php.
Beaune:
www.festivalbeaune.com;
www.chateau-de-st-fargeau.com.
Lyon:
www.nuitsdefourviere.fr;
www.bordeaux-toruisme.com/index_uk.html.
Grenoble (Rhone) Jazz Festival in March:
www.jazzgrenoble.com.
Belfort Eurock‚ennes Festival, the greatest pop, rock and
electro event in eastern France:
www.eurockeennes.fr.
Rouen: www.operaderouen.fr;
www.normandie-tourisme.fr.
Orange (Provence):
www.choregies.assoc.fr.
Nice (Riviera) Jazz Festival:
www.nicejazzfestival.fr.
"Fete de la Musique," all over France in June and July:
www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr.
French Government Tourist Office:
www.franceguide.com.
Patricia Woeber is a freelance travel writer. To read
features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists,
visit the Creators Syndicate website at
www.creators.com.
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